Repurposing Historical Jewellery

The Albert Chain  

In the Past 

One hundred & fifty years ago, the Albert chain was an essential accessory for the majority of society. Both decorative and practical, the Albert chain was an integral part of the Victorian ensemble, and a permanent feature in jewellery shop windows. 

Designed to be worn with a waistcoat, the Albert chain would carry a pocket watch at one end, and would attach to the buttonhole of a waistcoat at the other. This made accessing the pocket watch from the waistcoat pocket far easier whilst preventing it from being dropped – rather like a large safety chain. Alongside this, a small length of chain hung down from the buttonhole, and from this would often hang a fob. Fobs typically held an intaglio seal, carved into metal or precious stone, that would be used to impress wax to seal letters and other documents. 

An alternative to the standard Albert chain was a double Albert. This allowed an additional usage – a second chain would hang from the central buttonhole and sit in the other waistcoat pocket, symmetrically. This end of the chain would carry a counter weight in the form of another, typically practical, item, such as a sovereign coin holder or a case for matches (called a vesta). 

These chains were used by women too; known as Albertinas, these (usually fancier) chains would carry smaller, often very decorative pocket watches, alongside lockets, watch keys, and ornamental fobs. 

There were other, comparable accessories worn by women at the time. Chatelaines functioned in a similar way and were often worn by housekeepers. Rather than for pocket watches, chatelaines would have multiple extensions of chains for a variety of attachments such as scissors, propelling pencils, notepads, and keys. Muff chains, or long guards, were very long chains worn around the neck that would sometimes hold a pocket watch attached to a swivel clasp. 

Despite the Albert chain once being an integral part of Victorian fashion, in our perpetual pursuit of technological advancements, it was inevitable that a new, more convenient and efficient method of watch wearing would eventually make its way into society. This was, of course, the wristwatch.

Although the first wristwatch is believed to have been invented around 1810, it was their practical application in World War 1 that truly cemented them as the preferred way of carrying the time. As the soldiers returned home with their wristwatches, popularity soared, and so the pocket watch and Albert chain became almost obsolete. Today, they are occasionally used as originally intended at special events such as weddings, almost solely by men, but are seldom otherwise seen. 

In the Present

Over the years, many of these Albert chains have been lost to history, often melted down for their gold content. From an environmental perspective, this is a good thing. The need for newly mined gold is reduced as we recycle existing jewellery. But with each antique piece that is melted, a little bit of history is lost. And all of the hands it has passed through, and any imagined stories of its past, vanish along with it. Many Albert chains were hallmarked on each link, often with a date stamp. To wear an Albert chain is to wear a little piece of history. 

However, all is not lost for the Albert chain. Many antique jewellery collectors have discovered a new value by repurposing it from its original use. An accessory once used most often by men is now enjoyed by both sexes, who wear Alberts as unique and characterful necklaces and bracelets. And the repurposing doesn’t stop there. The more decorative and dainty Albertinas are often worn in similar fashion, and the fobs that once adorned them are collected as pendants and charms. 

Not only do Alberts and Albertinas create opportunities to be inventive and creative with how you wear jewellery, they are also accessible and friendly to all budgets. Alberts were used by people from all positions in society, and therefore they are available in a wide range of metals – from base metal and silver, to 9, 15, and 18 carat gold. Some were hollow to create more affordable gold options (although most that have survived are solid). They also vary drastically in design, from simple curb or figaro links to the highly desirable and extravagant box and fetter links adorned with stars. 

Our passion for rescuing antique jewellery has allowed us to collect a versatile range of Albert chains over the many years we have been in business. It also means we have developed a strong eye for spotting the genuine antiques from their modern reproduction counterparts. Original, period Alberts are important, especially to antique jewellery collectors who are attracted to these items for their history and character. With our experience comes confidence in our ability to source genuine antique items. 

All of the jewellery showcased in this blog is available, but we have many other options behind the scenes. If you’d like to know more about Albert chains and are considering purchasing one for your own collection, please reach out to learn more and let us know what you are looking for. We have a wide selection of fobs available too. 

Our next blog will cover how we restored two of the Albert chains featured in this blog – so check back for more! 

Albert Chain Blog Part Two – Restoring

Restoring Historical Jewellery: The Albert Chain

History and tradition form a large part of British culture and interest. It is therefore unsurprising that some of our most popular daytime television shows focus on antiques buying and selling, or that you can’t drive very far without passing an antique centre, or that there will always be some form of market or car boot sale held somewhere almost every weekend. Our love and appreciation for all things old has permeated our culture so wholly that it is considered a necessary part of our everyday lives. 

For this, we are thankful. It allows us to pursue our greatest passion – rescuing and restoring antique jewellery. Antique jewellery collectors provide homes for historical pieces that would certainly be destroyed without a market (many still are) – and much history along with them. Value is generated through their character, increasing rarity, and story rather than simply their scrap metal price. 

In our last blog ‘Repurposing Historical Jewellery: The Albert Chain’, we discussed the original usage for this familiar piece of jewellery, its downfall, and the recent upturn in popularity (no doubt thanks to the cultural love detailed above). 

Of course, nothing will survive 100-150 years without a few wrinkles! A level of restoration is required to bring an antique piece back to its former self, to reveal its original beauty. Albert chains are no exception, and this blog details that process. 

From Old to ‘New’

Let’s start with the basics – a good wash. Depending on its previous circumstances, objects requiring restoration can be covered in dirt or oils. It’s best to clean them with a simple soak or wash in warm water and washing up liquid. It’s surprising how well some century-strengthened dirt can cover essential hallmarks or stamps. These help to ascertain if an item is an original and authentic antique or a more modern reproduction. 

As a reputable reseller, quality is of top importance to us. Once the item has been washed, it is closely examined to look for wear and damage. Not all Albert chains have the scars that betray their age – some are in remarkably good condition. If only worn for best, it may have spent more of its life inside a box than out. But others that faced regular use could show signs of wear or even have breaks in the links. 

The type of metal plays a significant part in this; Albert chains were used throughout society by people from all different walks of life, and were therefore created to suit different budgets. Silver is an affordable metal, but a soft one, and joins between links may be more worn than with a 9 carat gold example – especially if the silver links were thin to begin with. But hardness of metal is no guarantee of durability; a hollow 9 carat gold example is likely to show more bumps and bruises than its solid silver counterpart. 

Worn links may need to be built up, or broken links soldered back together. In some cases, chains are damaged beyond repair, but this isn’t as bad as it sounds… parts can be salvaged to restore others. Swivel clasps with broken mechanisms can be replaced with original antique examples rescued from other chains. We salvage everything we can – even if this is just a section of undamaged links. These allow us to extend Alberts for customers who wish to wear them as necklaces. Many Alberts are only just long enough to be worn this way. Our collection of parts allows us to make discreet and sympathetic alterations if required. 

After assessing the condition of an Albert chain, and making any required repairs, the chains are polished. They face a more extensive clean in an ultrasonic machine that uses vibrations to loosen stubborn dirt and oil, alongside chemicals that undo the oxidisation process that causes metal to tarnish and become dull. 

They are also polished on a wheel, a process that takes skill and technique to prevent accidental damage. Scratches in the metal are buffed out using a polishing wheel, or mop, that rotates at high speed. This gives the metal a mirror shine. It is essential to polish very small sections of link at a time, holding tight either side, to prevent the chain from being caught and wrapping around the wheel, potentially causing significant scratches and dents to the metal. 

As Good as New

At the end of the restoration process, the Albert chain will look as it did when it was first made. Some 9 carat gold Alberts were gilded with rich, yellow gold to obtain the look of the more valuable higher carats (and this is why you can sometimes see bright yellow tones in the crevices of antique jewellery). This isn’t typically part of the restoration process; the coppery gold that hid beneath this vibrant top layer is appreciated (even preferred!) today for its soft colouring. 

It’s wonderful to be able to revive jewellery in this way. Seeing an antique item fully restored to its original condition feels like looking back in time, with the faint, momentary hope that perhaps a long-lost story will be uncovered beside the bright shiny metal hidden beneath years of wear. 

Many antique items pass through the hands of the goldsmiths in our on-site workshops and then move on to the next chapter of their lives. The ability to work on such a vast range of vintage and antique pieces has provided our goldsmiths with invaluable and extensive experience and knowledge, allowing us to confidently restore and sell authentic antique jewellery. 

If you have an item of jewellery that requires repair or that you are looking to restore, please contact us and we will happily advise you. Alternatively, if you are here because you are looking to add an Albert chain to your collection, please get in touch! We have a large range in stock looking for new homes. 

Join us next time to see how we restored a ring with a mysterious history that was found in the River Thames… 

Restoring a Mystery Signet Ring Found in the Thames

Have you heard of mudlarking? 

Originating from the 18th century, mudlarking was the act of searching for lost or discarded items on the banks of rivers in order to sell them. It was a task carried out by impoverished members of society trying to earn a living. And there would’ve been plenty to find… Before public rubbish collection systems had been established, rivers were often used by the surrounding city, town, or village to dispose of rubbish, and household and industrial waste. This caused significant damage to rivers in highly populated areas, such as the Thames, which is still recovering. 

Today, mudlarkers are a little more like treasure hunters (depending on what your definition of treasure is, of course!) or archaeologists. They scour beaches and riverbanks looking for lost or discarded goods that can offer a small glimpse into local history. I have been a few times myself, and when you uncover a long lost item, you can’t help but wonder whose hands were the last to touch it before yours. 

A customer recently brought us a signet ring that had been found in the Thames. It had been given a basic clean, but there was still mud stuck behind the stone. The silver ring was set with an oval rock crystal, and the metal was partially corroded and covered with black marks.

Establishing the age of the ring wasn’t easy. It was difficult to determine what were imperfections caused by early, rudimentary jewellery making processes and what was damage caused by decades amongst the mud, sand, and rocks of the turbulent Thames. Some elements, like the asymmetrical stone cut, were original and therefore could indicate significant age. Other parts were unclear; the irregular setting edge is often seen on older rings, but it’s impossible to be certain if it was caused by a naive manufacturing process, general wear, or from being buried. Adding further confusion to the mix, the style of ring and its weight held closer resemblance to more modern styles of signet rings.  

A full restoration was possible, but our customer didn’t want the ring to lose all its hard-earned character, so the restoration process needed to be simple and careful. We could unset the stone, polish out any scratches at a lapidary, and rebuild the ring’s setting edge to be thicker and more uniform. But to do so would erase any remaining indications of its history, thereby destroying any chance of knowing even a part of its mysterious story. The customer decided on a clean and polish to remove the dirt wedged behind the stone and the most significant tarnish and corrosion from the metal. 

It’s easy to dismiss the partial restoration due to the rings remaining ‘imperfections’. The stone is still scratched, the metal is still pitted, the setting edge is still uneven. But it’s important to recognise that all of these elements make up the ring’s unique history, and serve as a reminder that this is no usual signet ring, but a long lost, unearthed treasure with a secret past.

We will never know the truth behind this ring. Our best guess is that an old stone was set into a more modern ring around 100 years ago. But who wore it, and how it ended up in the Thames, will forever remain a mystery. Who knows what other secrets are hiding beneath the surface of this historical river; once a rubbish dump, now a mudlarker’s paradise. Perhaps it’s not the promise of treasure that draws people in, but the ability to storytell, to imagine a life gone by, and a personal connection to someone from the past. A thread from one hand to another, back through time. 

The Solid Gold Purse

A History of Chainmail Purses

Mesh bags have existed in some form since the Georgian period, but the peak of their popularity would not be realised until almost 100 years later. The style is thought to have originated during the industrial revolution. The rapid increase in pollution in the country’s major cities left many unhappy with the advances in technology and production. This inspired a number of artistic movements that each produced distinctive designs linked by a common ideology; they rejected the acceleration into the future and searched for inspiration in the simpler times left behind, either via manufacturing processes or aesthetics. One of these artistic movements was greatly influenced by the Middle Ages. The chainmail armor once worn by medieval knights would go on to inspire their antithesis – fine chainmail had a fabric like quality, ideal for crafting bags and purses made from gold and silver. 

The version of chainmail bag we are most familiar with today is attributed to a United States jewellery manufacturer called Whiting & Davis. They are credited with designing the first purse of this style in 1892, approximately 50 years after the Victorian medieval revival in the UK. This niche area of history is a little murky, as reputable auction houses in the UK have sold similarly designed chatelaine purses purportedly from the Georgian period, 100 years prior. Of course, it’s possible they drew inspiration from this earlier design period. But regardless, this desirable accessory soon became a far more significant part of the Whiting & Davis brand than it ever was for the medieval revival period. Chainmail bags became the centre and signature of Whiting & Davis products. 

At first, they were an expensive and exclusive item, boosting their popularity. To satisfy low-budget demand, manufacturers began creating low-grade silver and base metal examples. But there was a problem – each bag had to be entirely crafted by hand. Yes – all of those tiny little rings were hand assembled! This really limited production, and the steep cost of labour meant retail prices remained high even when less valuable metals were used. 

Whiting & Davis, unable to fulfill production demand alone, had to battle the increasing number of competitors now flooding the market. But they were working on something behind the scenes that would put them at the forefront of production once more. In 1909, they filed a patent for a machine that automated the production of the chainmail. This invention marked the end for many of their competitors, who simply couldn’t keep up with their output. 

By now, chainmail bags had been on the market for almost 20 years; they were no longer a new and exciting must-have accessory. Whiting & Davis, having invested in improvements to the manufacturing process, were eager to keep the trend alive so that their innovation and hard work would prove worthwhile. The newly automated production allowed them to focus their attention on developing unique designs that kept the purses relevant in the demanding and constantly evolving fashion industry. They were successful in this endeavor, and still produce mesh bags today – over 100 years later! 

The extensively recorded history of Whiting & Davis has helped shine a rare light on the journey of our own gold chainmail bag. Ironically, so many vintage and antique collectors love old items because of their history and story, despite the fact they are unlikely to ever uncover them. Fortunately, that is less of the case in this instance, and the bag is marked with a number of useful clues that give insight into its fascinating past. 

It is hallmarked for 1908, the year prior to the invention of the automated machine. It’s amazing to think the hundreds of tiny hoops that form the mesh were therefore painstakingly assembled by hand; a fact that gives the bag even greater appeal and solidifies its part in the history of jewellery making. The hallmark includes an import mark, meaning the bag was not manufactured in the UK. We’ll never know for certain where it began its life, but it’s possible it was manufactured in the United States and shipped to the UK, creating an even stronger connection to the history detailed above. 

This 9 carat gold bag is in beautiful condition; the fact it has survived so well for so long is testament to the skills of the people who dedicated so much time to its production. Our new-found knowledge has given us a refreshed appreciation for it – we hope you feel the same way!

You can find out more about the bag featured in this blog here.