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A couple of centuries ago, the Albert chain was an essential accessory for the majority of society. Both decorative and practical, the Albert chain was an integral part of the Victorian ensemble, and a permanent feature in jewellery shop windows.
Designed to be worn with a waistcoat, the Albert chain would carry a pocket watch at one end, and would attach to the buttonhole of a waistcoat at the other. This made accessing the pocket watch far easier whilst preventing it from being dropped – rather like a large safety chain. Alongside this, a small length of chain hung from the buttonhole, and from this would often hang a fob. Fobs typically held an intaglio seal, carved into metal or precious stone, that would be used to impress wax to seal letters and other documents.
A double Albert allowed an additional usage – a second chain would hang from the buttonhole and sit in the other waistcoat pocket, symmetrically. This end of the chain would carry a counter weight in the form of another practical item, such as a sovereign coin holder or a case for matches.
They were used by women too; Albertinas would carry smaller, often very decorative pocket watches, alongside lockets, watch keys, and ornamental fobs. There were other, comparable accessories worn by women at the time. Chatelaines functioned in a similar way and were often worn by housekeepers. Rather than for pocket watches, chatelaines would have multiple extensions of chains for a variety of attachments such as scissors, propelling pencils, notepads, and keys. Muff chains, or longuards, were very long chains worn around the neck that would sometimes hold a pocket watch attached to a swivel clasp.
Despite the Albert chain once being an integral part of Victorian fashion, in our perpetual pursuit of technological advancements it was inevitable that a new, more convenient and efficient method of watch wearing would eventually make its way into society. This was, of course, the wristwatch.
Although the first wristwatch is believed to have been invented around 1810, it was the practical application for the soldiers in World War 1 that truly cemented them as the preferred way of carrying the time. As the soldiers returned home with their wristwatches, their popularity soared, and so the pocket watch and Albert chain became almost obsolete. Today, they are occasionally utilised as originally intended at special events such as weddings, almost solely by men, but are seldom otherwise seen.
Over the years, many of these Albert chains have been lost to history, often melted down for their gold content. From an environmental perspective, this is a good thing. The need for newly mined gold is reduced as we recycle existing jewellery. But with each antique piece that is melted, a little bit of history is lost. All of the hands it has passed through, and any imagined stories of its past, vanish along with it. Many Albert chains were hallmarked on each link, often with a date stamp. To wear an Albert chain is to wear a little piece of history.
However, all is not lost for the Albert chain. Many antique jewellery collectors have found new value in the Albert chain by repurposing it from its original use. An accessory once used most often by men is now enjoyed most often by women, who wear Alberts as unique and characterful necklaces and bracelets. And the repurposing doesn’t stop there. The more decorative and dainty Albertinas are often worn in similar fashion, and the fobs that once adorned them are collected as pendants and charms.
Not only do Alberts and Albertinas create opportunities to be inventive and creative with how you wear jewellery, they are also accessible and friendly to all budgets. Alberts were used by people from all positions in society, and therefore they are available in a wide range of metals – from base metal and silver, to 9, 15, and 18 carat gold. Some were hollow to create more affordable gold options, although most that have survived are solid. They also vary drastically in design, from simple curb or figaro links to extravagant box and fetter links adorned with stars.
